Zanthoxylum simulans and Z. Piperitum

These two spices, one traditional for cooking in the Sichuan province of China and the other for Japan, are the dried fruits of the prickly ash tree.

Also called flower pepper, Japanese pepper and until recently fagara (the prickly ash is no longer classified in the genus Fagara), this spice should by no means be identified with black and white peppercorns, which are harvested from the Piper nigrum vine.

FLAVOR

Sichuan pepper is very fragrant, woody, slightly pungent, with notes of citrus zest. Sansho is strong and sharp. Both have a numbing and burning effect in the mouth.

Sansho leaves, called kinome, used as a garnish in Japan, have a mint and basil flavor.

USED ARE dry berries and fresh leaves.

PURCHASE AND STORAGE

Szechuan pepper is sold whole or ground in Asian markets and in specialty spice shops. Sancho is available as a coarse powder from the same sources. Split berries retain their scent longer than powder; store them in a closed container.

The kinome season is very short and the leaves are hard to find outside of Japan. If you manage to get them, they can stay in the fridge for several days in a plastic bag.

USE IN COOKING

Sichuan pepper is an important and integral part of the Chinese spice mixture five-spice powder.

For many dishes, the berries are dry-roasted for 3-4 minutes. Dry roasting releases their aromatic oils, but heating creates smoke, so control the heat and discard blackened berries. Grind them after they cool; and an electric grinder can do the job well. Sieve and discard the husks and store in a tightly sealed container to use as a seasoning. It's best to do it a little at a time because the flavor evaporates quickly.

Roasted pepper is also used to make seasoned salt. Sichuan pepper is used with poultry and meat for roasting, grilling, frying or stir-fried vegetables.

Try it with green beans, mushrooms and eggplant.

Sansho is used as a table spice in Japan and is one of the ingredients in the seven-spice mixture, shichimi togarashi. The spice is most often used with fatty fish, meat and poultry to mask the smell.

Kinome has a refreshing, mild flavor and soft texture that makes it a very popular herb or garnish for soups, stews, barbecues and cooked salads.

IT IS ESSENTIAL FOR five-spice powder, Chinese seasoning salt (Sichuan pepper); seven-spice mixture (sansho).

COMBINES WELL WITH black beans, chili, citrus, garlic, ginger, oil and sesame seeds, soy sauce, star anise.